Just got my 2022 civic sport this past weekend and wondering what is the absolute best oil and filter for it for when it comes time to change the oil?
What is the best filter and oil?
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Krose05
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I use Mobil 1 0-20 and OEM filters. Oil changes, even using “expensive” stuff, are still cheap in the long run and not a place I am interested in saving money. If you do 2-3 a year and save $10 each time, it’s so insignificant. Nothing wrong with Kirkland or Amazon oils if they meet the specs, but I just prefer to have the peace of mind of using oil from a company that is recommended by OE manufacturers, whether that’s Mobil or Castrol or whatever
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I purchased a 2022 Civic Sport Hatchback w/2.0 ltr engine and manual tranny. Just changed the oil and filter for the first time at 1100 miles with a genuine Honda filter which I discovered is a poorly made Fram filter built by Honeywell industries and mobil 1 0w-20 full synthetic oil. My next oil and filter change will be with the Purolater Boss filter, (I believe the PBL 14610) purchased from Advanced Auto Parts and Ultra Platinum Pennzoil 0w-20 oil from Walmart. I watched a YouTube video cutting open several brand name filters and the one which impressed me most was the Purolater Boss PBL14610. Check out the YouTube channel, "Project Farm", which provides alot of useful automotive information.
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“Poorly made” Is subjective and honestly filter dissection is not very telling. Keep in mind how many dealer maintained Hondas use these supposed low quality filters and run for hundreds of thousands of miles. Are there better options? Maybe, but it’s not all about just filtration, remember filters play into oil pressure as well. Not saying __ is better than __ but just saying it’s not as simple as some make it out to be. End of the day, changing your oil at proper intervals and not driving like an asshole likely plays more into engine longevity than using filter A instead of B. If you’re swapping them every 5,000 miles, run whatever you want that isn’t a complete POS counterfeit
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Mobil1 EP 0w-20 is a great oil, easily found over the counter, and often on sale. It has some of the highest PAO content of any Mobil1 oil, and is a true Group 4 synthetic oil. I see nothing wrong with Honda oil filters and use them always.
My favourite all around oil is Redline but it is was never API certified due to it's high anti-wear additive package, a great built group 5 synthetic oil but doesn't have the certification, and too expensive to use on a street driven car for many.
My favourite all around oil is Redline but it is was never API certified due to it's high anti-wear additive package, a great built group 5 synthetic oil but doesn't have the certification, and too expensive to use on a street driven car for many.
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We all consume and digest information in different and varied ways, so I get your argument when you say "poorly made" is subjective, but my eyes don't lie when I see filter x having been produced with a cardboard end-cap, glue applied as if done by an infant child, the filtering material collapsed and disfigured after 5000 miles, etc. Filter y is cut open and I see a metal endcap, the glue applied uniformly, and the filter material is straight, etc., then I ask myself which would one would I buy and the answer becomes a little more clear, at least to me. I'm just offering a window into how I process this information with the hope it is helpful to someone who may read my response to their question. If you purchase filter x over y after due diligence, then it's a good picture of how a free, open, and capitalistic system works, no harm no foul. I'm not trying to convince anyone of anything, just offering an alternative. It's a decision of not right or wrong, but a series of trade-offs.
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Yea the YouTubers point out a lot of differences but fail to mention WHY they are “bad”. Why are cardboard endcaps bad? They just find something to harp on and then frame it to fit whatever narrative they want to put forth. For me, if the factory and the dealers use it for years and years, it’s got a certain level of trust. Sure there’s products out there that use nicer materials, I’ve just yet to see anyone give any compelling argument for why it matters. I trust Honda’s R&D and due diligence for their suppliers, over Vladimir’s YouTube video where he thinks he’s figured out everything about oil filters by reading Reddit for a week
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I am 68 years old and have changed oil and filters in many cars over the years so I've been a student/practitioner of this particular DIY method for maybe longer than you've been alive. So for you to question why a cardboard endcap should be a matter of concern is either intellectually disingenuous or you've stepped into subject matter of which you know little or nothing about. Cardboard is a poor material (especially when steel is readily available) to use in the manufacture of an important part of keeping your oil filtered on your car which is as expensive as an engine. If an ill informed novice should overextend his or her oil change interval to the extent the endcap should deteriorate and release it's material into the oil flow, then we have a potential problem which may end up costing them funds they do not have, so our written advice offerings should reflect a knowledge base begat from experience, not maybe so. My concern is that people who step into a subject like this where they have little or anecdotal evidence only may influence a novice to extend their change intervals to points of engine damage. BTW, don't marginalize YouTube channels for offering valuable tips and advice because they are out there helping while you diminish their importance with your comments.
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If you want to start your comments with attacks, go waste time somewhere else. You’ve got a habit of getting pissy on here the last few days and I don’t know why
Honda doesn’t even call for changing the “bad” filter at every oil change, per the A service guide. But sure you know best
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You know, the written word lacks the nuance of face to face language because you don't benefit from the visual cues it provides, so I want to apologize to you and maybe others who have communicated with me on such subjects. I mean no harm and ask you to forgive me for getting caught up in the back and forth without considering the impact of my word posturing. We all are here hopefully to inform to the community benefit. Have a great day my friend.
Which oil is best type discussions are completely useless without any data, such as used oil analysis (UOAs). The 11th gens share the same engines as the 10th gens; there’s a UOA database in the maintenance forums on civicx - go see for yourself. I did a few UOAs on my 17 LX with the 1.5t. I compared Amsoil SS to the much vaunted Quaker state full synthetic. IIRC the wear metals in the Amsoil analysis were less than half of what Quaker state showed. I’ve always gotten great UOAs with Amsoil in other vehicles. Amsoil also costs twice as much as Mobil-1 from wally world, so unless you’re keeping your car forever, it’s probably a waste of money.
I like Wix xp filters because they seem to be well made. Beyond that I have zero evidence to show they’re any better than fram or supertech.
I like Wix xp filters because they seem to be well made. Beyond that I have zero evidence to show they’re any better than fram or supertech.
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All this "intellectual" pitter patter just makes me so much more happier knowing I run a cheap fram filter and Costco Kirkland signature 0w-20 on my Honda and beat it like it's the third round on 2 dollar Tuesday with a 2 dollar wh.ore. bounce the rev limiter all the time. Still has the original clutch. Regardless of how long you been doing this....use whatever you want. If Honda recommends a shitty filter.....use it. I'm sure there's a reason why. Hell I got a car that use toilet paper rolls as the oil filter.......so there's that. I usually use Kirkland signature toilet paper for that too as an oil filter and boy i tell you what,it runs like a champ.that thing is probably older than 99.89% of this forum.
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I just drain the filter and reuse it for about 20,000 miles. It's usually fine . Costco synthetic 0w20 does the trick also
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Filters are always a balance between filtration and flow and f you have more filtration, you will sacrifice flow. I use the OEMs because as you said, if the dealers use them they are fine with me. Also, different bypass valves may open at different pressures, and I like having oil pressures be where the factory wants them. Having watched some videos about HVAC filters, they said adding pleats to the filter will reduce flow, and the best way to maintain flow and improve filtration was to make the filter deeper. In their example it was like going from a 15x25x1" to a 15x25x3" filter. In a car, the filter itself would physically have to be larger to accommodate those deeper pleats.
Really don't think it matters TOO much at my 5k intervals, which is also what I saw on the BITOG forum. Rather change more often and have a newer filter and oil, given the fact it costs me $30 a change.
This is true, but likely not significant in a daily driving application. If you want max flow but less filtration, ie. racing application, K&N offers filters that do just that. The other issue, especially with extended drain intervals is a small filter becoming saturated with contaminants, reducing flow. Correct me if I'm wrong, but all Honda engines use the same filter. My 630 cc Honda V-twin (generator) uses the same filter as the 3.5 V6. The L15 is definitely on the smaller side of the Honda lineup.
I just don't trust Fram filters because of their cheaper construction. If you like them, great. For me, the extra couple bucks for a WIX is worth it. I can remember in the late 90s, one of my friends worked at a Honda dealership, and a customer lost an engine from an OEM filter that came apart. Guess who made the filters for Honda..
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WOW, SCAMSOIL SALESPEOPLE ARE SO SMART
What does not driving like an asshole mean.
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I'm curious too🤣
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Great informative video
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