You're about to get 100 different responses.

Asking car people their engine oil and filter preferences is like asking what's your favourite s3x position. As long as it gets the job done (0w20 GF6 oil), not much difference

 

I beg to differ. You see...........💀🤣

 

The Civic Sport Sedan requires 0w-20 oil so buy one from a reputable brand and you'll be good to go. And don't care about those that charge an arm and leg for oil that lasts 20k miles or such nonsense. Get a reputable brand correct specification oil and change it every 5k miles and you'll be good to go. Some say 5k miles is an overkill but see oil and filter is cheap maintenance but engine is expensive. For oil filter I always buy Honda OEM from dealership when it goes on sale for like $4 each.

 

Not one of these again. Just go get a Honda filter and some Costco oil ,it'll be fine

 

I just purchased a case of Idemitsu 0W-20 for $4.75/quart but it's GF5. Would it be terrible to use it since it's not GF6? I have a '22 Civic Si on order and would be using it in that.

 

I mean maybe for like 3000 miles. But this being a gdi engine series I'd say,switch it out for a gf6.
Kirkland signature 0w20 works rather well
It's a solid d1g2 so it's all your engine needs.

 

Thanks, I did plan to change it at every 5,000. Only reason I really did want to know for sure is because the owners manual doesn't say much of anything in it honestly. This is my first brand new car ever which is why I was wanting some opinions. I just want to be sure to use the better ones to keep this car running for, well..ever.
I've always had used cars that sucked ass. So I want to treat this one like the princess she is

 

Thanks, I did plan to change it at every 5,000. Only reason I really did want to know for sure is because the owners manual doesn't say much of anything in it honestly. This is my first brand new car ever which is why I was wanting some opinions. I just want to be sure to use the better ones to keep this car running for, well..ever.
I've always had used cars that sucked ass. So I want to treat this one like the princess she is

0w20 is full synthetic generally. I don't think you can get a 0w20 non synthetic. So they all generally work .
Just remember to clean the intake every 20 k and keep air filter clean. Gdi is notorious for.issues because of it.

 

I stuck a camera in once. It helps I'd say a good 50% cleaner. That's a win for me.

 

"The Honda manual calls for GF5 oil but that's likely because it was printed before GF6 was standardized."

Wait, the 2022 manual calls for GF5? I thought the GF6 standard came out in 2020.

 

Wait, the 2022 manual states GF5? I thought the GF6 standard came out in 2020.

Actually, I'm mistaken. It only says, use an oil with the API Seal. So according to the API Website,

• Effective May 1, 2021, ILSAC GF-6A provides the only basis for issuance of a license to use the API Certification Mark “Starburst.” Oils meeting ILSAC GF-5 will no longer be eligible to display the API Certification Mark “Starburst” and will no longer appear on the online EOLCS Directory after April 30, 2021.

 

I use Mobil 1 0-20 and OEM filters. Oil changes, even using “expensive” stuff, are still cheap in the long run and not a place I am interested in saving money. If you do 2-3 a year and save $10 each time, it’s so insignificant. Nothing wrong with Kirkland or Amazon oils if they meet the specs, but I just prefer to have the peace of mind of using oil from a company that is recommended by OE manufacturers, whether that’s Mobil or Castrol or whatever

 

I purchased a 2022 Civic Sport Hatchback w/2.0 ltr engine and manual tranny. Just changed the oil and filter for the first time at 1100 miles with a genuine Honda filter which I discovered is a poorly made Fram filter built by Honeywell industries and mobil 1 0w-20 full synthetic oil. My next oil and filter change will be with the Purolater Boss filter, (I believe the PBL 14610) purchased from Advanced Auto Parts and Ultra Platinum Pennzoil 0w-20 oil from Walmart. I watched a YouTube video cutting open several brand name filters and the one which impressed me most was the Purolater Boss PBL14610. Check out the YouTube channel, "Project Farm", which provides alot of useful automotive information.

 

I just drain the filter and reuse it for about 20,000 miles. It's usually fine . Costco synthetic 0w20 does the trick also

 

“Poorly made” Is subjective and honestly filter dissection is not very telling. Keep in mind how many dealer maintained Hondas use these supposed low quality filters and run for hundreds of thousands of miles. Are there better options? Maybe, but it’s not all about just filtration, remember filters play into oil pressure as well. Not saying __ is better than __ but just saying it’s not as simple as some make it out to be. End of the day, changing your oil at proper intervals and not driving like an asshole likely plays more into engine longevity than using filter A instead of B. If you’re swapping them every 5,000 miles, run whatever you want that isn’t a complete POS counterfeit

 

We all consume and digest information in different and varied ways, so I get your argument when you say "poorly made" is subjective, but my eyes don't lie when I see filter x having been produced with a cardboard end-cap, glue applied as if done by an infant child, the filtering material collapsed and disfigured after 5000 miles, etc. Filter y is cut open and I see a metal endcap, the glue applied uniformly, and the filter material is straight, etc., then I ask myself which would one would I buy and the answer becomes a little more clear, at least to me. I'm just offering a window into how I process this information with the hope it is helpful to someone who may read my response to their question. If you purchase filter x over y after due diligence, then it's a good picture of how a free, open, and capitalistic system works, no harm no foul. I'm not trying to convince anyone of anything, just offering an alternative. It's a decision of not right or wrong, but a series of trade-offs.

 

Mobil1 EP 0w-20 is a great oil, easily found over the counter, and often on sale. It has some of the highest PAO content of any Mobil1 oil, and is a true Group 4 synthetic oil. I see nothing wrong with Honda oil filters and use them always.

My favourite all around oil is Redline but it is was never API certified due to it's high anti-wear additive package, a great built group 5 synthetic oil but doesn't have the certification, and too expensive to use on a street driven car for many.

 

Which oil is best type discussions are completely useless without any data, such as used oil analysis (UOAs). The 11th gens share the same engines as the 10th gens; there’s a UOA database in the maintenance forums on civicx - go see for yourself. I did a few UOAs on my 17 LX with the 1.5t. I compared Amsoil SS to the much vaunted Quaker state full synthetic. IIRC the wear metals in the Amsoil analysis were less than half of what Quaker state showed. I’ve always gotten great UOAs with Amsoil in other vehicles. Amsoil also costs twice as much as Mobil-1 from wally world, so unless you’re keeping your car forever, it’s probably a waste of money.
I like Wix xp filters because they seem to be well made. Beyond that I have zero evidence to show they’re any better than fram or supertech.

 

All this "intellectual" pitter patter just makes me so much more happier knowing I run a cheap fram filter and Costco Kirkland signature 0w-20 on my Honda and beat it like it's the third round on 2 dollar Tuesday with a 2 dollar wh.ore. bounce the rev limiter all the time. Still has the original clutch. Regardless of how long you been doing this....use whatever you want. If Honda recommends a shitty filter.....use it. I'm sure there's a reason why. Hell I got a car that use toilet paper rolls as the oil filter.......so there's that. I usually use Kirkland signature toilet paper for that too as an oil filter and boy i tell you what,it runs like a champ.that thing is probably older than 99.89% of this forum.

 

If Honda recommends a shitty filter.....use it. I'm sure there's a reason why.

Filters are always a balance between filtration and flow and f you have more filtration, you will sacrifice flow. I use the OEMs because as you said, if the dealers use them they are fine with me. Also, different bypass valves may open at different pressures, and I like having oil pressures be where the factory wants them. Having watched some videos about HVAC filters, they said adding pleats to the filter will reduce flow, and the best way to maintain flow and improve filtration was to make the filter deeper. In their example it was like going from a 15x25x1" to a 15x25x3" filter. In a car, the filter itself would physically have to be larger to accommodate those deeper pleats.

Really don't think it matters TOO much at my 5k intervals, which is also what I saw on the BITOG forum. Rather change more often and have a newer filter and oil, given the fact it costs me $30 a change.