Are you able to uninstall and amp/sub setup? Disconnect battery and try again?

 

I mentioned on my main list that I have, left it disconnected completely

 

Also not sure but see this. I know it's not the same model

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/stop-start-not-working-solved.57386/

Personally I didn't know people still install aftermarket subs anymore. With all the electronics in today's cars, I wouldn't touch or mess with them.

 

I did see this post but as I have already disconnected the battery I can see how this would do anything as no current can flow.

Booked back with Honda as it seems odd. I am wondering if that sensor isn't working.

 

I would try having the dealer figure this out. I have seen other posts (non type R) and sometimes a new battery has actually resolved this. It's possible your battery went under a certain voltage and tripped this.

Once you've disconnected everything, try to go for a 10 mile drive or longer to see if it clears. If seen that work for some.

In the end, the dealer should figure this out for you. Sorry it's not ideal.

 

I would try having the dealer figure this out. I have seen other posts (non type R) and sometimes a new battery has actually resolved this. It's possible your battery went under a certain voltage and tripped this.

Once you've disconnected everything, try to go for a 10 mile drive or longer to see if it clears. If seen that work for some.

In the end, the dealer should figure this out for you. Sorry it's not ideal.

Thanks, battery voltage seems OK and it's a brand new car. Tried the drive as well. Will just see what they say on Thu.

 

I think this vehicle only has 135 amp alternator. If I had to guess with all the electronics the vehicle has. I would venture to say you're probably exhausting the battery buffer capacity. Causing a jumping into the alternator capacity and depleting it. That would eventually burn up the alternator. Which would illuminate that light telling you the vehicle may have trouble starting. Disabling the auto restart feature because battery voltage dropped below 12.6 roughly. It monitors battery voltage constantly. The only way to know for sure. You would need to test the battery and the alternator while they're under full load. See what voltage output is if it's too much for the system. You would need an oversized alternator to compensate. Under full load the alternator with its voltage regulator should keep the battery above 12.6 volts. Better yet if it's 13.2 or 14.2 even under full load. That alternator is pretty much designed to keep everything in the car running with the battery as a buffer. All while keeping it within an acceptable voltage range. If you were to take the battery out of the vehicle after it was running. It would be fine until you started turning on all the electronics then car would stall. So basically subs kicking everything else on vehicle running test the battery voltage see if it's dipping below 12ish. If it is you need a bigger alternator for sure. Ideally you'd want it to maintain just under 14ish dc volts in that scenario.

 

Thanks for the advice. What doesn't make sense is that currently the amp/sub are NOT connected. Despite then fully charging the battery overnight, the warning light is still showing. I have also spoken to the installer and the amplifier maker and they have never experienced this before so I am not convinced yet there isn't an issue with the car (or there is a way of clearing the "warning" assuming it is only that, which I can't do myself. It's in with Honda on Thursday so should know by then!