Not sure what you are asking. The fog light stalk is a direct replacement for the stock Si stalk. You do not need to install the panel switch that is provided, you can just bury it anywhere behind the dash and leave it on.
Fog Light Install w/OEM Stalk Switch
I decided to install fog lights on my 2022 Si and had heard good things on the forum about Mikstore. So I purchased the fog light kit and OEM turn signal stalk switch. I also added yellow Lamin-X to the lights because I like that look.
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I removed the bumper just like other posts and videos show, installed the lights and ran the wiring. Mikstore told me how to attach the wires to the OEM stalk and everything works! Fogs turn on independent of the headlights but won't turn on unless the car is running.
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I removed the bumper just like other posts and videos show, installed the lights and ran the wiring. Mikstore told me how to attach the wires to the OEM stalk and everything works! Fogs turn on independent of the headlights but won't turn on unless the car is running.
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I'm trying to connect the OEM stalk now and struggling. I ran a separate ground to OEM connector's open pin but it doesn't work. Should I have removed the normal harness ground and connected it to the OEM pin instead of normally grounding it? I'm sure this is a dumb question. ThanksNot sure what you are asking. The fog light stalk is a direct replacement for the stock Si stalk. You do not need to install the panel switch that is provided, you can just bury it anywhere behind the dash and leave it on.
I might not be following correctly, but yes, the ground only goes to the slot in the OEM harness. If you double ground it then it won't work. The lights need a "real" ground, but the ground connector from the light switch included in the harness goes to the OEM stalk connection.I'm trying to connect the OEM stalk now and struggling. I ran a separate ground to OEM connector's open pin but it doesn't work. Should I have removed the normal harness ground and connected it to the OEM pin instead of normally grounding it? I'm sure this is a dumb question. Thanks
Got it. Thanks! I'll give that a try and update the threadI might not be following correctly, but yes, the ground only goes to the slot in the OEM harness. If you double ground it then it won't work. The lights need a "real" ground, but the ground connector from the light switch included in the harness goes to the OEM stalk connection. View attachment 15504
Your advice worked perfectly. I appreciate it.Got it. Thanks! I'll give that a try and update the thread
Here's how I wired my eBay fogs/harness (without a separate relay trigger wire) to the OEM NADM Sport Touring/Touring headlight stalk:
• Fog light connectors connect to the fog light housings
• The ground eyelet that's closest to the fog light connectors goes to a ground. There's a good bolt near the driver's side of the bumper
• I extended the positive wire a few feet so I could keep the relay, inline fuse and switch inside the cabin. These don't look very waterproof/water resistant and I don't think they'll last long in the engine bay. I mocked up the inline fuse, relay and switch inside the cabin, then extended the wire
• I ran the wiring through the fender, above the wheel well liner, and used the inner fender/door grommet to run the positive wire. Loom it and it'll be invisible.
• Use an add-a-fuse on the DRL fuse (42) and connect it to the positive
• Find the ground that comes off of the relay and remove the eyelet
• Using a new wire, connect the above wire to the relay's ground (which no longer has an eyelet) and run it to the steering column
• Separate the steering column cover by prying it apart
• Remove the factory, non-fog stalk, and replace it with the new stalk. There are two Phillips screws holding the lower trim and one retaining the stalk. Remove the stalk itself with the two retaining clips.
• Using your newly extended ground wire, push it into the bottom row connector, next to the pink wire (pictures are above in the thread). The wire strands will need to be thin enough to extend to the end of the connector and reach the stalk's pin. At the same time, ensure that the wire's insulation will hold the wire into the connector. I'm going to find a pin from a junkyard and do this the right way.
• Using this method, you'll still need to keep the cheap switch (and leave it on), but the OEM switch will operate the fog lights. I want to cut the janky switch out of the harness next.
Thank you so much for the step by step instructions and congratulations!Your advice worked perfectly. I appreciate it.
Here's how I wired my eBay fogs/harness (without a separate relay trigger wire) to the OEM NADM Sport Touring/Touring headlight stalk:
• Fog light connectors connect to the fog light housings
• The ground eyelet that's closest to the fog light connectors goes to a ground. There's a good bolt near the driver's side of the bumper
• I extended the positive wire a few feet so I could keep the relay, inline fuse and switch inside the cabin. These don't look very waterproof/water resistant and I don't think they'll last long in the engine bay. I mocked up the inline fuse, relay and switch inside the cabin, then extended the wire
• I ran the wiring through the fender, above the wheel well liner, and used the inner fender/door grommet to run the positive wire. Loom it and it'll be invisible.
• Use an add-a-fuse on the DRL fuse (42) and connect it to the positive
• Find the ground that comes off of the relay and remove the eyelet
• Using a new wire, connect the above wire to the relay's ground (which no longer has an eyelet) and run it to the steering column
• Separate the steering column cover by prying it apart
• Remove the factory, non-fog stalk, and replace it with the new stalk. There are two Phillips screws holding the lower trim and one retaining the stalk. Remove the stalk itself with the two retaining clips.
• Using your newly extended ground wire, push it into the bottom row connector, next to the pink wire (pictures are above in the thread). The wire strands will need to be thin enough to extend to the end of the connector and reach the stalk's pin. At the same time, ensure that the wire's insulation will hold the wire into the connector. I'm going to find a pin from a junkyard and do this the right way.
• Using this method, you'll still need to keep the cheap switch (and leave it on), but the OEM switch will operate the fog lights. I want to cut the janky switch out of the harness next.
Happy to hear it worked!Your advice worked perfectly. I appreciate it.
Here's how I wired my eBay fogs/harness (without a separate relay trigger wire) to the OEM NADM Sport Touring/Touring headlight stalk:
• Fog light connectors connect to the fog light housings
• The ground eyelet that's closest to the fog light connectors goes to a ground. There's a good bolt near the driver's side of the bumper
• I extended the positive wire a few feet so I could keep the relay, inline fuse and switch inside the cabin. These don't look very waterproof/water resistant and I don't think they'll last long in the engine bay. I mocked up the inline fuse, relay and switch inside the cabin, then extended the wire
• I ran the wiring through the fender, above the wheel well liner, and used the inner fender/door grommet to run the positive wire. Loom it and it'll be invisible.
• Use an add-a-fuse on the DRL fuse (42) and connect it to the positive
• Find the ground that comes off of the relay and remove the eyelet
• Using a new wire, connect the above wire to the relay's ground (which no longer has an eyelet) and run it to the steering column
• Separate the steering column cover by prying it apart
• Remove the factory, non-fog stalk, and replace it with the new stalk. There are two Phillips screws holding the lower trim and one retaining the stalk. Remove the stalk itself with the two retaining clips.
• Using your newly extended ground wire, push it into the bottom row connector, next to the pink wire (pictures are above in the thread). The wire strands will need to be thin enough to extend to the end of the connector and reach the stalk's pin. At the same time, ensure that the wire's insulation will hold the wire into the connector. I'm going to find a pin from a junkyard and do this the right way.
• Using this method, you'll still need to keep the cheap switch (and leave it on), but the OEM switch will operate the fog lights. I want to cut the janky switch out of the harness next.
thanks for this. Now my question. I have the DRL kit + fog light kit installed with the button next to my knee when i start the car I have WHITE DRL KIT running with no fogs when i press the button the DRL turns blue and the fogs come on I ordered the stalk with the fog controller. how can i make the fogs come on with the white DRL. Again thanks for the how to will help a bunchThank you so much for the step by step instructions and congratulations!
thanks for this. Now my question. I have the DRL kit + fog light kit installed with the button next to my knee when i start the car I have WHITE DRL KIT running with no fogs when i press the button the DRL turns blue and the fogs come on I ordered the stalk with the fog controller. how can i make the fogs come on with the white DRL. Again thanks for the how to will help a bunch
I would connect the DRL positive(s) to the fog positive, and combine the DRL ground to the fog ground near the bumper. The rest of the procedure should work the same. I'm trying to remove the harness switch and only keep the OEM switch this weekend.
Thank you for the information
Removing the harness switch and only retaining the OEM switch
This was a lot easier than I thought it would be.
Now I want to get the fog light indicator to work on the cluster...
This was a lot easier than I thought it would be.
- Label each wire that's exiting the relay and going to the switch twice (on each side of the planned cut) - this will make repairs easy if things go sideways
- My switch had two red positives, a blue switched positive and a ground. Cut them all
- I connected the two red positives and blue switched positive together
- I removed the additional ground from the relay to the switch, as it's now unnecessary
- Throw the janky switch in the trash
Now I want to get the fog light indicator to work on the cluster...
let us know if u get the dash light workingRemoving the harness switch and only retaining the OEM switch
This was a lot easier than I thought it would be.
- Label each wire that's exiting the relay and going to the switch twice (on each side of the planned cut) - this will make repairs easy if things go sideways
- My switch had two red positives, a blue switched positive and a ground. Cut them all
- I connected the two red positives and blue switched positive together
- I removed the additional ground from the relay to the switch, as it's now unnecessary
- Throw the janky switch in the trash
Now I want to get the fog light indicator to work on the cluster...
I got my stalk today in the mail
I thought about it and realized there isn't even an indicator to be displayed. Every trim with foglights also has the full digital gauge cluster, so it's not even built into the half digital display.let us know if u get the dash light working
I got my stalk today in the mail
I'm thinking about the full digital display and it probably wouldn't be that difficult to add. The displays go for about $200 and the steering wheel switches with the second scroll are about $30 new. The two likely issues - getting the mileage reprogrammed on the cluster and possibily needing a different clockspring.
Ideally, I'd want a Canadian Si digital dash (to retain the Si features, plus gain the digital dash and the shift lights) and an Integra with heated wheel clockspring (might as well future proof for uogrades). I think both of those will be expensive though.
I just bought a 23 Si which I dropped off for PPF. Is your brake pedal doing a click sound every time you press down on the brake. While driving and every time I apply the brakes. It's a single click sound and feel every time. Just wanna know if that's normal. Thank you
Question: I just bought a 23 Si, which I dropped off for PPF. Is your brake pedal doing a click sound every time you press down on the brake. While driving and every time I apply the brakes. It's a single click sound and feel every time. Just wanna know if that's normal. Thank you
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