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Discussion starter · #84 ·
Got my tires mounted in the morning: 245/35 on 18x9.5 et38. Tires are cheap all seasons with 500 treadwear rating. I prioritize tire life 😏
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I'm satisfied with the amount of stretch. For several years I had 215/40 on 18x9 (tame for this crowd) on a past car.
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Quick shot on the car, because I had an issue to address.
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The LX diffuser melted after a day of driving. I wasn't surprised. 😅
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I removed the muffler and applied aluminum tape to the underside of the diffuser. I also painted the muffler with high temp spray paint.
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Discussion starter · #85 ·
Took these photos at a Corolla meet. I regret getting 245/35 tires because of the wheel gap. On my previous Tesla wheels with 235/40, the finger gap was 1 front/0.5 rear. Now it is 1.5 front/1 rear. The new tires are 10mm wider with 7mm thinner sidewalls (14mm shorter overall tire height). I lowered my car 7mm with these tires! 😆 I should of got 245/40 for a fatter sidewall. 245/35 is an obscure tire size, so I took a gamble ordering them. I considered the slightly more popular 255/35, but I was concerned about rubbing. The obvious solution to my wheel gap problem is to get coilovers. More low is always the answer! 😅🤣😎
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This Corolla GR was parked down the street from me. I love the fitment/fender gap (or lack of) and subtle sideskirts.
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Photos of the black muffler 😎
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Discussion starter · #86 · (Edited)
Installed a DC Sports front strut bar for a 10th gen. I put the sticker off to the side because I want to the center part clean. I might remove the sticker eventually. I got this bar because I like the subtle design and it includes new strut nuts that utilize all the threads.
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DC Sports states it does not fit 2.0 and 11th gens. I took a gamble. To make it fit, I had to replace the stock battery tie down for a thinner piece ($6 from Amazon). I also trimmed the mounting plates to clear the stock windshield cowl.
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Previously I had a PRL bar and the stock strut nuts didn't seat fully. I felt uncomfortable driving like that.
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Discussion starter · #87 · (Edited)
Recent pics. Still thinking about ways to reduce the front wheel gap (1.5 fingers). Maybe I'll swap the front springs for D2, which are half-inch lower more than my H&R springs. I'll keep the H&Rs in the rear. Used D2 springs are $100-125 on FB Marketplace in my area ($70 on OfferUp!). I can install Koni adjustable struts (left, right) during the install. Less expensive than coilovers. I don't need the height and camber adjustment. 🤔🤔🤔
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Discussion starter · #88 · (Edited)
Got a used Hybrid Racing shifter with competition rod for $350. 🤩 I considered the Acuity shifter. Both have 50% shorter throws, 30% narrower gates (35% for Acuity), and knob height adjustment. Knob placement (close or away) is different. Acuity has 3 "slotted mounting points" that move the shifter closer or away. HR's 360 degree rotation offers incremental placement. K-Tuned's shifter resembles the throw and gate mechanisms of Acuity, with the base and knob attachment of HR. All 3 function the same. I went with whichever was less expensive ($408 new for HR on eBay, before $20 coupon). HR's shifter has been out longest and easier to find used.

I'll install this weekend. This will be the 4th time I take apart the center console. I broke 3 clips and I'm afraid of breaking more. 🫣😬

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Got a used Hybrid Racing shifter with competition rod for $350. 🤩 I considered the Acuity shifter. Both have 50% shorter throws, 30% narrower gates (35% for Acuity), and knob height adjustment. Knob placement (close or away) is different. Acuity has 3 "slotted mounting points" that move the shifter closer or away. HR's 360 degree rotation offers incremental placement. K-Tuned's shifter resembles the throw and gate mechanisms of Acuity, with the base and knob attachment of HR. All 3 function the same. I went with whichever was less expensive ($408 new for HR on eBay, before $20 coupon). HR's shifter has been out longest and easier to find used.

I'll install this weekend. This will be the 4th time I take apart the center console. I broke 3 clips and I'm afraid of breaking more. 🫣😬

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Wow nice score!

Buy some new clips before you take it apart again.
 
Discussion starter · #90 · (Edited)
Installed the Hybrid Shifter. The shifter is noticeably shorter, notchier (requires more effort), and noisier (metal-on-metal mechanisms, no more plastic-on-plastic). I didn't reinstall the bezel while I test different shifter angles. I rotated the shifter 180° after the first drive. I'll also try making a boot delete plate. I zip tied the buttons to center console.

1st setup
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2nd setup
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Finished installing the shifter. While I wait for someone to make a cheaper alternative to the J's racing boot delete, I made one out of Daiso gardening mesh. I attached it to the mounting points for the stock shift boot.
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Didn't know J's Racing made a shift boot delete, but when I clicked your link it went to Chasing J's, not the same company. All their stuff is made of titanium, so that makes sense why its priced the way it is, $70 - 80 for what is technically a custom cut titanium plate doesn't seem too bad. I think it looks good without the boot, dont think a delete or that mesh is really needed, but as long as it looks good to you.
 
Discussion starter · #93 ·
Didn't know J's Racing made a shift boot delete, but when I clicked your link it went to Chasing J's, not the same company. All their stuff is made of titanium, so that makes sense why its priced the way it is, $70 - 80 for what is technically a custom cut titanium plate doesn't seem too bad. I think it looks good without the boot, dont think a delete or that mesh is really needed, but as long as it looks good to you.
I didn't notice "chasing" in the name and assumed it was J's Racing 😅🫣

I removed the garden mesh today. Took less than a day for me to get bored of it 🙈

On a Facebook group I read 2 vendors are developing delete plates. I prefer plain aluminum or black plastic.

 
I didn't notice "chasing" in the name and assumed it was J's Racing 😅🫣

I removed the garden mesh today. Took less than a day for me to get bored of it 🙈

On a Facebook group I read 2 vendors are developing delete plates. I prefer plain aluminum or black plastic.
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Haha, no I get that.

Should check out Etsy too. I'm sure someone there has made one.
 
Discussion starter · #98 ·
Are you still using the Powerflex engine mount insert? Are you happy with it NVH and performance wise?
I'm currently using the stock mount with the OEM Type R mount insert. I love the PowerFlex inserts in the Type R mount, when AC is off. Shifts were crisp. The feedback feel was perfect. I first installed them as the weather was warming and I starting using AC daily. The vibrations at idle with AC were too harsh with the PowerFlex inserts. I plan to reinstall the PowerFlex in November. I hope they break-in by the following summer.
 
I'm currently using the stock mount with the OEM Type R mount insert. I love the PowerFlex inserts in the Type R mount, when AC is off. Shifts were crisp. The feedback feel was perfect. I first installed them as the weather was warming and I starting using AC daily. The vibrations at idle with AC were too harsh with the PowerFlex inserts. I plan to reinstall the PowerFlex in November. I hope they break-in by the following summer.
OEM type r mount insert? What do you mean?
 
Discussion starter · #100 ·
OEM type r mount insert? What do you mean?
I removed the stock insert from the FL5 mount and put it in the stock FL2 mount (see this comment). The stock FL5 mount with the PowerFlex inserts is in storage. I had to remove the FL5 insert to make room for the PowerFlex inserts.
 
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