[jordanmlatimer]

Hey everyone, could anyone provide a helping hand/assistance on how to get speaker wire from my crossover(inside my door to the tweeter mounted on the A Pillar inside the car. It's a 22' Sport Hatchback without Bose Sound System. I'm replacing all my speakers with JBL aftermarket speakers but running into two main issues. The primary one being getting the wire feed up to the tweeter. Second being the new tweeter is too small for the stock tweeter mount! Any ideas on how to go about that would be helpful. Thank you!

 

[RobMedina]

What we normally do is use tie wire or an old coat hanger to 'fish' wires through tight spots. What I like to do is pull a piece of tie wire through or even solid wire and then pull string through that I tie my wires to. I will also pull an extra string sometimes for future updates or changes.

 

[Eric1357]

What we normally do is use tie wire or an old coat hanger to 'fish' wires through tight spots. What I like to do is pull a piece of tie wire through or even solid wire and then pull string through that I tie my wires to. I will also pull an extra string sometimes for future updates or changes.

I am about to install new speakers also to my 2022 EX model...from the response you gave, it sounds like there isn't a molex connectors on either side of the rubber tubing. Is this correct? If so, that will make things a lot easier for me.

 

[RobMedina]

I am about to install new speakers also to my 2022 EX model...from the response you gave, it sounds like there isn't a molex connectors on either side of the rubber tubing. Is this correct? If so, that will make things a lot easier for me.

If you're just changing speakers why not just use the factory wiring and get an adapter?

 

[Eric1357]

adapter

My amp will have speaker level inputs so I won't be needing an LOC adapter. I don't think there is a plug and play harness available yet for this car.

 

[mikeberlak]

Jordan... How did you end up solving this? I'm trying to do the same thing.

 

[Sixstringz]

Would love to know if you ever solved this as well, as I am running into the same issue with the 25 civic. My thing is I would rather keep the factory wiring. There must be some location where both the woofer wire and tweeter wire meet, and maybe I can mount the crossovers there. I'm thinking the most likely position for that is behind the stereo. But do they break off from each other with a splice? Or do they have separate feeds to each speaker from the radio? I suppose theres only one way to find out.

 

[mikeberlak]

Would love to know if you ever solved this as well, as I am running into the same issue with the 25 civic. My thing is I would rather keep the factory wiring. There must be some location where both the woofer wire and tweeter wire meet, and maybe I can mount the crossovers there. I'm thinking the most likely position for that is behind the stereo. But do they break off from each other with a splice? Or do they have separate feeds to each speaker from the radio? I suppose theres only one way to find out.

On the stock (not Bose) setup... There are not separate woofer and tweeter wires coming from the radio. There's a "full range" wire going to the big speakers in the door and another full range feed to the tweeters in the A pillars. The stock tweeters have a "low cut filter capacitor" attached to limit them to receiving only high frequencies.
The back doors are easier since you can grab the original wire and then do a new crossover to feed the woofers and the tweeters within the door panels.
The front is more of a challenge. I put the crossover at the end of the original wire in the door and ran new wire up to the woofer AND a new wire from the in-door crossover thru the grommet and under the moulding up to the A pillar tweeters. Not the most artistic method since you can see the wire when the door is open but it works. Alternative would be as you suggested, getting up behind the radio and mounting the crossovers there. I'd think you would be able to use the original wiring then for both the door speakers and the A pillar tweeters.

 

[Sixstringz]

On the stock (not Bose) setup... There are not separate woofer and tweeter wires coming from the radio. There's a "full range" wire going to the big speakers in the door and another full range feed to the tweeters in the A pillars. The stock tweeters have a "low cut filter capacitor" attached to limit them to receiving only high frequencies.
The back doors are easier since you can grab the original wire and then do a new crossover to feed the woofers and the tweeters within the door panels.
The front is more of a challenge. I put the crossover at the end of the original wire in the door and ran new wire up to the woofer AND a new wire from the in-door crossover thru the grommet and under the moulding up to the A pillar tweeters. Not the most artistic method since you can see the wire when the door is open but it works. Alternative would be as you suggested, getting up behind the radio and mounting the crossovers there. I'd think you would be able to use the original wiring then for both the door speakers and the A pillar tweeters.

I actually ended up mounting the crossover in the door and running new wire up to the tweeter. I managed to get up thru the plug in the door. The whole top part of that plug between the door and the car is wide open. I was able to slip 2 wires in there. But I'm not happy with the stock unit at all. It's only putting out 2 volts. AND the HU starts to clip at 28! That's ridiculous. Not nearly enough power that I want. I went and bought the Pioneer from crutchfield. The line output converters gotta go. It sounds good, just at what you would expect at 28. I even tried pushing it, pushing it into clipping, but I can hear it instantly.

 

[mikeberlak]

Glad it worked out for you. With the stock HU and the Infinity speakers I used, I don't hear any distortion even all the way up. Although the volume is deafening. I usually run about mid 20's when driving by myself. Plenty loud. Added an 8" under-seat sub as well.

 

[Sixstringz]

Glad it worked out for you. With the stock HU and the Infinity speakers I used, I don't hear any distortion even all the way up. Although the volume is deafening. I usually run about mid 20's when driving by myself. Plenty loud. Added an 8" under-seat sub as well.

That's so crazy! I dont get it. It's clearly clipping on the oscilloscope at level 28. And i have the LOC pu shed right up till it clips. And I can clearly hear my JBL stadium speakers distorting past that level, which isn't even loud. It's actually clipping around 25 now because I'm pushing my amps, just messing around with the system. But, I just received the Pioneer DMH-C2550. That's my next project and I'm seriously hoping it fixes my issues. I'm also upgrading my amp to the JBL Stadium 5, which should be here tomorrow. So, 🤞🤞, fingers crossed that I'm satisfied with it. What Infinity speakers do you have, if you dont mind me asking. I had an Infinity system in my Chrysler and that was great, but I also had this JBL system in my old 18 civic and that was amazing as well. I need that back!

 

[mikeberlak]

Here's a post I did detailing my speaker upgrades last year. Has all the speaker info.
'24 EX Sound System Upgrade for $350
(Only revision I'd make is to the pictured EQ settings. Had my ears de-waxed recently and found I can hear a LOT more highs! So I now have the Bass/Mid/Treble set at +2/-1/-6...yes, all the way down on the highs as those Infinity tweeters really cook. The sub is set to only do the very low frequencies...doing anything higher makes it sound kind of "boxy.")

Are you measuring the distortion directly out of the HU or after your added amps? Are you possibly overdriving the amps? I seem to remember the stock speakers breaking up at high volumes, but I think that was the speakers, not the HU...especially since the new speakers sound so clean. PLENTY of volume without additional amps.