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Mikstore Model C power folding mirrors with integrated LED turn signals, 2022 Si.

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Discussion starter · #23 ·
If you are looking at the Mikstore kit to add motors to your current mirrors then there is quite a bit wiring to do, as the motor only kit doesn't pin in like the complete kit. It has a separate harness and control box and requires running a wiring through the firewall grommet behind the brake pedal to the battery, as well as across the cabin. If you purchase the complete kit with the motors already installed (like I did) then you are correct. All of your connections would be inside the doors, pulling signal from the locking mechanism inside the door to trigger the motors at lock and unlock. The kit also comes with a driver's side door window switch with the folding mirror button sourced from the Pilot. The passenger door comes with a new window switch as well. The window switches have the same part number as the ones in my car, but I swapped them anyway (maybe they did something inside the assembly before shipping IDK) The wire that travels across the cab is for folks that are adding LED turn signals to the complete kit.
 
#24 ·
2022 Sonic Gray SI said:
If you are looking at the Mikstore kit to add motors to your current mirrors then there is quite a bit wiring to do, as the motor only kit doesn't pin in like the complete kit. It has a separate harness and control box and requires running a wiring through the firewall grommet behind the brake pedal to the battery, as well as across the cabin. If you purchase the complete kit with the motors already installed (like I did) then you are correct. All of your connections would be inside the doors, pulling signal from the locking mechanism inside the door to trigger the motors at lock and unlock. The kit also comes with a driver's side door window switch with the folding mirror button sourced from the Pilot. The passenger door comes with a new window switch as well. The window switches have the same part number as the ones in my car, but I swapped them anyway (maybe they did something inside the assembly before shipping IDK) The wire that travels across the cab is for folks that are adding LED turn signals to the complete kit.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the response. Let me ask another question (well maybe 2):

1. do your mirrors still fold and unfold upon command from the mirror control switch?
2. If so would you mind showing me a picture of the pin layout from the back of your mirror control switch?

Thanks!
 
#25 ·
stanleywinthrop said:
So, I've got an A-spec that already has turn signals and heated mirrors. OP, if I understand correctly, if I were to get this kit, I wouldn't need to fish a wire across between the doors?
Click to expand...
You need the cheaper kit
mikstoreph.com

Honda Side Mirror Auto Folding Kit

For Honda Models without Side Mirror Folding Feature. Available for different Honda models Nice and convenient feature No more manual folding of side mirror by hand. Press key lock button, the side mirror will fold Press key unlock button, the side mirror will unfold Dedicated Folding button...
mikstoreph.com mikstoreph.com
 
#26 · (Edited)
Adidas said:
You need the cheaper kit
mikstoreph.com

Honda Side Mirror Auto Folding Kit

For Honda Models without Side Mirror Folding Feature. Available for different Honda models Nice and convenient feature No more manual folding of side mirror by hand. Press key lock button, the side mirror will fold Press key unlock button, the side mirror will unfold Dedicated Folding button...
mikstoreph.com mikstoreph.com
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's what I thought, and in fact I've already got it. The one complication is that mikstore sent a hackneyed wiring kit along with an older 10th gen mirror switch, which is totally different harness than the 11th gen. My goal is to wire it as closely to the 11th gen method as possible, which means I need to find a source for the newer 11th gen mirror switch.

Further the "black box" sent with the mikstore cheaper kit is 100% not OEM and probably prone to failure, so I want to wire it out of my harness. At least that was my experience with the 10th Gen hirev mirror kit, which had a similar non-oem "black box" that turned out to be a serious point of failure, so bad in fact, that hirev discontinued the kit.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Sounds like you purchased the motor only kit? I had purchased the motor only kit and installed it in my non-LED mirrors and used the aftermarket control box. When Mikstore started carrying the complete kit, I ordered it for the ease of installation. I simply didn't want to crack the mirrors back open and deal with it. Both kits that they sent me contained the correct mirror control switch (sourced from a Pilot, I imagine). Both switches that they sent me were spot on for my 11th Gen Si. I don't know what the A-Spec mirror control switch plug looks like or the control panel on your driver's door?

If you install the mirrors and wish to eliminate the goofy plug-and play control box, it may be doable, but as I mentioned before the window switches, they sent for the driver's and passenger door in the complete kit carried the same part number as my car, but I don't know if they went into them and added jumpers inside the switches? I'm guessing they did, or they would not have provided them, of course they are serving several markets and trim levels, so I really don't know. I added the new switches on my install. As a note, I had no issues with the plug and play set up in the 6 months it was in my car, so it was reliable.

If you have an Acura, you may need to source the mirror control switch from the MDX, if what they sent you won't plug into your mirror switch connector?

For an 11th Gen Honda, in your situation, like a Touring with BSM, Heat, and LED turn signals, simply pinning a jumper from slot 14 on the white Mirror control switch back to slot 20 on the gray driver's side window control switch would be all you need on the white connector for the mirror control switch (it is a green wire in the photos). Pinning 2 wires from the gray driver's side window control switch, negative in slot 26 and a positive in slot 27 and then using these 2 wires (white and black in the photos) to drive the mirror motor wires from the add the motors kit, theoretically would work. The wires from 26 and 27 would need to go directly to the small 2 pin connector in your kit, and not pin into the white connector that goes to the mirror. Again, I don't know what they did inside the control switches that they sent with the kit. They may have modified them internally to bypass the need for the control box in your kit, so this may not work, but I would try it with jumper wires for proof of concept before pinning anything permanently. Pinning is easy...unpinning is not.
 
#28 ·
2022 Sonic Gray SI said:
Sounds like you purchased the motor only kit? I had purchased the motor only kit and installed it in my non-LED mirrors and used the aftermarket control box. When Mikstore started carrying the complete kit, I ordered it for the ease of installation. I simply didn't want to crack the mirrors back open and deal with it. Both kits that they sent me contained the correct mirror control switch (sourced from a Pilot, I imagine). Both switches that they sent me were spot on for my 11th Gen Si. I don't know what the A-Spec mirror control switch plug looks like or the control panel on your driver's door?

If you install the mirrors and wish to eliminate the goofy plug-and play control box, it may be doable, but as I mentioned before the window switches, they sent for the driver's and passenger door in the complete kit carried the same part number as my car, but I don't know if they went into them and added jumpers inside the switches? I'm guessing they did, or they would not have provided them, of course they are serving several markets and trim levels, so I really don't know. I added the new switches on my install. As a note, I had no issues with the plug and play set up in the 6 months it was in my car, so it was reliable.

If you have an Acura, you may need to source the mirror control switch from the MDX, if what they sent you won't plug into your mirror switch connector?

For an 11th Gen Honda, in your situation, like a Touring with BSM, Heat, and LED turn signals, simply pinning a jumper from slot 14 on the white Mirror control switch back to slot 20 on the gray driver's side window control switch would be all you need on the white connector for the mirror control switch (it is a green wire in the photos). Pinning 2 wires from the gray driver's side window control switch, negative in slot 26 and a positive in slot 27 and then using these 2 wires (white and black in the photos) to drive the mirror motor wires from the add the motors kit, theoretically would work. The wires from 26 and 27 would need to go directly to the small 2 pin connector in your kit, and not pin into the white connector that goes to the mirror. Again, I don't know what they did inside the control switches that they sent with the kit. They may have modified them internally to bypass the need for the control box in your kit, so this may not work, but I would try it with jumper wires for proof of concept before pinning anything permanently. Pinning is easy...unpinning is not.
View attachment 16966 View attachment 16967 View attachment 16968 View attachment 16969 View attachment 16970
Click to expand...
Awesome, thanks for the detailed reply. For some reason I cannot post pics right now (maybe because I'm new). But whenever I gain that ability I'll post pics of the back of the 10th gen switch that came with my auto-fold kit and the newer switch that I'm fairly sure comes with the C kit.

Ok nevermind. I figured it out. The first pic is the 10th gen switch, and the second pic is the newer switch.

The autofold mikstore kit basically adapts between the 2 pin patterns and wires the mirrors very differently than the C kit does.
Image
Image
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Apologies, I spaced your ask on the photo. I have attached a picture of the pins on my mirror switch, and yes, the mirrors work off the switch and can even be enabled disabled at the head unit in settings. Since I only added pins to my existing white mirror switch plug the fit wasn't an issue with the Model C kit. Have you made any progress on your project?

Image
 
#30 · (Edited)
2022 Sonic Gray SI said:
Apologies, I spaced your ask on the photo. I have attached a picture of the pins on my mirror switch, and yes, the mirrors work off the switch and can even be enabled disabled at the head unit in settings. Since I only added pins to my existing white mirror switch plug the fit wasn't an issue with the Model C kit. Have you made any progress on your project?

View attachment 17077
Click to expand...
I've made some progress. I was able to independently source the exact same mirror switch you pictured. I also modified the mikstore autofold harness to wire out the black box as a proof of concept and was able to get it to work.

So at this point I need to take apart the mirrors to install the fold motors, which I kinda dread because I know it will be a PIA. After that I will attempt to wire it in the OEM/C kit manner. The open question is whether my OEM window switches will work. I think they will because I have visually confirmed they have pins in the right places and I have conversed with someone who took a slightly different route than I am taking but nevertheless successfully used his OEM window switches. If all else fails I have the fall back of the modified mikstore harness and 10th gen switch to go with.

At the end of the day if all goes as planned, at the cost of the independently sourced mirror switch I will be able to wire the autofold kit exactly like the OEM/C method and avoid the necessity of fishing a wire across under the dash between the doors, which will be worth it in my book.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
On the bright side, since you already have the Integrated LEDs in your mirrors, the mirror caps are much easier to take apart than the non-LED mirror caps. When you start to pry the mirror caps, do it with the mirrors still on the car for leverage (same with removing the mirror glass), and start prying right above the LED strip. Be patient, lots of subtle wiggling, and try to use pick tools to get under some of clips as you dissemble, especially the 3 large clips closest to the car window. Once the caps are free, removing the mirror glass becomes easier. The mirror stalk has a 2-piece shroud. Huge pain, but it has to come apart to get to the base screws. Work this with the mirror off the car. The wiring harness from the door to the mirror has to pass through a hole much smaller that the pin connector, (Honda connectors with micro pins, don't like to de-pin) so I peeled back the casing on the harness and cut each wire staggered at 1/2 intervals. After I passed the harness through the new motor assembly with the 2 new motor drive wires, I soldered each wire and used heat Shink tubing. Staggering the wires prevents a lump, like a mouse in a snake and is handy, because, if memory serves a couple of the wires, are the same color. Good luck on the project. It is a pain in the butt, but worth it.
 
#33 ·
2022 Sonic Gray SI said:
On the bright side, since you already have the Integrated LEDs in your mirrors, the mirror caps are much easier to take apart than the non-LED mirror caps. When you start to pry the mirror caps, do it with the mirrors still on the car for leverage (same with removing the mirror glass), and start prying right above the LED strip. Be patient, lots of subtle wiggling, and try to use pick tools to get under some of clips as you dissemble, especially the 3 large clips closest to the car window. Once the caps are free, removing the mirror glass becomes easier. The mirror stalk has a 2-piece shroud. Huge pain, but it has to come apart to get to the base screws. Work this with the mirror off the car. The wiring harness from the door to the mirror has to pass through a hole much smaller that the pin connector, (Honda connectors with micro pins, don't like to de-pin) so I peeled back the casing on the harness and cut each wire staggered at 1/2 intervals. After I passed the harness through the new motor assembly with the 2 new motor drive wires, I soldered each wire and used heat Shink tubing. Staggering the wires prevents a lump, like a mouse in a snake and is handy, because, if memory serves a couple of the wires, are the same color. Good luck on the project. It is a pain in the butt, but worth it.
Click to expand...
Awesome, thanks again for the advice. I definitely planned on taking the mirror lens and cap off before removing the assembly from the door, and thanks to you I'll attempt to take the cap off first before the lens. I've got some de-pining tools that i've had success at de-pining honda harnesses in the past which I plan to use. In fact, I'll probably just take the door panel off this weekend and practice depinning the mirror connector before attempting the full monty.
 
#34 ·
2 wires for the turn signal mirrors or for the folding part?
2022 Sonic Gray SI said:
I added the power folding mirror with integrated LED turn signals to my 2022 Civic Si. I had previuosly posted that I added the power folding mirror kit from Mikstore. It wasn't a fun install but it was cool to have the stock mirrors fold and unfold with the locking and unlocking of the vehicle, but I always wanted the integrated LED turn signals. When Mikstore offered the Model C, plug and play complete mirror kit, I jumped on it. A little spendy at over $700 US, but well worth it to have the LED turn signals with heat, BSM and power folding. I am jumping in to share the install with you folks, in case you are nervous about attempting the install, and to provide relevant directions for the North American Civics. My install was in my 2022 Honda Civic Si that already had Blind Spot Monitoring and heated mirrors, but may assist others with other 11th Gen models. The instructions provided by Mikstore were a little confusing, so hopefully what I attach will take the confusion out of the install. Everything provided was OE Honda, and literally pinned in to the factory connectors, except for 2 wires that required tapping, which was super cool. It is so OE that after the install the folding mirrors show up in my settings on my center mounted dash display allowing me to turn them on or off through my head unit, again, super cool.
Click to expand...
 
#36 ·
I’m doing this install and having a difficult time because this is my first experience with wiring. i’m stuck on getting the green 23 wire into the gray plug. How are these pins supposed to go into the plug? I don’t know which way is up. Also, the advice on the instructions of “make sure the plug is unlocked“ doesn’t make sense to me. Can someone give me a hand?
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Apologies, I'm not tracking the forum very often. List of honey-dos with landscaping has me busy. The reference to unlocking refers to the little tab on the plug that can be nudged with a jeweler's screwdriver. The locking tab only pops up a couple of millimeters but allows the new pin to slide into the connector until it seats. Basically, allows it to click in. The insertion direction should be locking tab on the wiring connector facing down towards the smaller hole use to release the pin if necessary. After insertion, I use a jeweler's flat tip to ensure that the inserted wire is seated, then a slight tug to make sure it's good to go. Press the locking tab back down, and you're done.
 
#38 ·
2022 Sonic Gray SI said:
Apologies, I'm not tracking the forum very often. List of honey-dos with landscaping has me busy. The reference to unlocking refers to the little tab on the plug that can be nudged with a jeweler's screwdriver. The locking tab only pops up a couple of millimeters but allows the new pin to slide into the connector until it seats. Basically, allows it to click in. The insertion direction should be locking tab on the wiring connector facing down towards the smaller hole use to release the pin if necessary. After insertion, I use a jeweler's flat tip to ensure that the inserted wire is seated, then a slight tug to make sure it's good to go. Press the locking tab back down, and you're done.
Click to expand...
Thanks!

Regarding wiring the turn signals, I’m having trouble with access down where the fuse box is, and where you punched a hole to pass the wires from the cab to the door boot. I’m not clear about that whole process. How did you have enough clearance to punch a hole?
 
#39 ·
2022 Sonic Gray SI said:
Apologies, I'm not tracking the forum very often. List of honey-dos with landscaping has me busy. The reference to unlocking refers to the little tab on the plug that can be nudged with a jeweler's screwdriver. The locking tab only pops up a couple of millimeters but allows the new pin to slide into the connector until it seats. Basically, allows it to click in. The insertion direction should be locking tab on the wiring connector facing down towards the smaller hole use to release the pin if necessary. After insertion, I use a jeweler's flat tip to ensure that the inserted wire is seated, then a slight tug to make sure it's good to go. Press the locking tab back down, and you're done.
Click to expand...
Thanks!

Regarding wiring the turn signals, I’m having trouble with access down where the fuse box is, and where you punched a hole to pass the wires from the cab to the door boot. I’m not clear about that whole process. How did you have enough clearance to punch a hole?
 
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