I just took a look at that PRL kit. I'll give you a little background on my experience with intake plumbing modification. The largest gains will come from those that will require tuning of modules. I wouldn't expect anything over 15 HP. Because they increase the air volume into engine so much they mess with fuel trims. A tune would definitely be in order to compensate and take advantage of all that new air. However if done right you could probably see 15HP maybe. I tried to read that PRL Dyno readout they posted but for the life of me I can't see the chart numbers.😅 I understand this kit doesn't require a tune. However their short ram kit or whatever they call it. Using the Big Bore tube it would require a tune but it looks like it would suffer from heat soak horribly.
View attachment 14500
I wouldn't put much faith in these dyno claims so many manufacturers make and are inflated. A Dyno chart like this below would be much more readable however this one is not overly inflated. It also pertains too much more than intake plumbing only mods tq/hp gains. Though I do believe they exaggerate a little bit like most.
View attachment 14503
View attachment 14505
See that adds 8 HP this is all for a 96 F250 with a 7.5 L gas engine by the way. Also note this is not as high as the PRL intake kit gains for the Honda. These are the install instructions below for that intake mod on a 7.5l. Note they have you remove the factory air silencer horns a common modification that costs you nothing. Those little air horns have other bigger tubes over the top of them. They severely restrict airflow from the airbox into the engine. They thought in the 90s through an effect those horns created back then. That it would create a smoother air flow spin effect. Whipping up the air in like a cyclone type motion. Not to mention keep everything quieter but it severely robbed the engine of air. That's why you don't see them anymore in intake plumbing. This truck is also an OBD1 system so it has a very dumb computer and no MAF sensor. It uses speed signal density and programming in the engine control module that pulls from a giant program table. It's a very forgiving system it has its pros and cons. Therefore there is no need to tune anything with allowing that much more air in. It won't mess up your fuel trims and allows for maximum gains. Here's the instructions for removing the air silencer horns. You can see kind of what I mean it lays it all out.
View attachment 14504
Most of the gains in this system come from the type of air filter used and the removal of those air silencer horns. Still yet it only amounts to 8 hp. When it comes to the PRL kit and your Honda with the 1.5 L turbo engine. I don't think the PRL kit is worth what they're asking. Looking over it below here we can see it is pretty much the same design as the factory OEM plumbing.
View attachment 14501
View attachment 14502
Though it doesn't use a flat style filter it uses a canister style and it is oiled. The setups look very similar and the filter is in the same position as oem. Look to be same size shape roughly but one is made out of over $200 plastic the other is not. Not to mention they would have us believe it is heat soak resistant plastic very special. Below here is pictured the 1.5 L Turbo with its Factory OEM intake box/plumbing. Where it's located I don't think you have to worry much about heat soak. The location that draws air just like the PRL is a good one. From what I can tell it doesn't look like it's pulling air through the radiator directly into the box. It would have to be drawing for much lower than where it is even with that drop in the lip .
View attachment 14498
View attachment 14499
These are things I highlighted that stuck out to me. The type of filter used being an oiled filter makes a big difference. Oiled filters are not like dry filters. They actually allow for more CFM of air. The gaps in the filter are wider that's why they have to be oiled. This is where most of your gains are going to come from. All that other stuff they pitch is just marketing in my honest opinion like many others. I would drop in one of these filters below if it were me. Best I can tell you're going to see about the same amount of gains as that whole PRL kit claims to gives. Putting in the better performing filter will increase air flow. Probably gain about five to seven HP in a real world scenario. Best part you did it all for the low low cost of $47.69 plus shipping.
View attachment 14506
Remember I said the banks Dyno results I didn't feel was too overly inflated. Most of the gains that come from that kit. Come from a more free-flowing exhaust along with exhaust headers that scavenge. Creating like a vacuum effect on the engine reducing back pressure. Causing more air to be drawn in and cylinders gasses to more efficiently empty out. Being the dumb system it is you get the increase but there's not really much to tune. If you did that to a modern vehicle today you would definitely want to tune for it. That or you risk O2 sensors going off fuel trims out of wack all sorts.😬 That's my two cents on the fancy air intakes. For the kind of money they ask on these intake kits. You could really add some serious power. Plug and Play modules better exhaust tune more boost. Sorry for the long post I just wanted to be as thorough as possible. If it were me I would put an oiled air filter in and call it a day. Google has a lot of good articles about dry verse oiled intake air filters cfm. An engine is like an air pump. The more air you can put in one end and get out the other. The more power it's going to make. As long as you keep it within acceptable limits and tune everything for it. Swapping to an oiled filter will net some gains and will not mess with fuel trims. I would imagine you would be able to also feel this in throttle response. Hopefully you find this helpful I probably overexplained the crap out of it. 😅 Being under warranty you can always slap the OEM filter back in there if needed. Good luck and cheers 🍻
