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HELP ON STEREO INSTALL PLEASE

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3.7K views 6 replies 3 participants last post by  snmtazz  
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#1 ·
Hi Gents,


I have an Asian Built 11th gen Executive plus of which I assume is the same audio setup as the U.S Sport model ,
it has 4 midbasses,4 tweeters without the Bose system,no sub no amp but strangely the 9inch infotaiment system.

now what I wish to do is:

1) Install a DSP AMP which I already have that being the Match PP62DSP: MATCH PP 62DSP

2) to use a plug n play T connector to tap in the amp from the headunit: MATCH PP-PAC 25

3) to add an active sub and get signal from the dsp amp: Alpine - SWE-815 8” (20cm) Amplified Subwoofer Box


now the questions:

1) where should I tap into for remote wire? which fuse is best to use?

2) this car being a non bose car do you think its possible to simply connect to the fuse no: 55 (AUDIO AMP) even though there is no amp from factory? it is rated 30 amps which is far far more than enough for my 35rms x 6 channel stereo and 75rms active sub which is going to use 20 amps max rated and 10-12amps at best while listening to actual music?

3) I see mixed reports on the radio code issue where some stated the radio never asked it, some stated it did but all they needed to do was press the ON button for 3 seconds and some saying it was hell and that they couldnt solve it without going to the dealer.

what is the best recommended steps to avoid issues on this?
 
#2 ·
Ok, so I am trying to see what your trying to accomplish here. You have a DSP, a wiring harness that is not for the 11th gen civic, and an active sub. If your goal is to DSP the factory speakers that will be a waste of time as the factory speakers are pretty terrible when comparing them to aftermarket speakers.

Now if we assume that the DSPs built in amp is going to power your speaker and some how the harnessing works fine you will still need real power for this unit and the sub/amp unit in the trunk/hatch of your civic. I would recommend you run a direct power wire from the battery, with these small units a quality OFC 8 gauge wire should be sufficient. Also include a fuse before the wire connects at the positive terminal of the battery and preferably another one before the sub/amp.

As for the remote turn on lead, I would find an unused open fuse slot that is 12 volts switched and use a fuse tap in that slot to provide the 12v turn on signal.

I have not heard of the code issue you speak of for the radio but it is possible, I would look in your manual see if there is a default code.
 
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#3 ·
all4spl said:
Ok, so I am trying to see what your trying to accomplish here. You have a DSP, a wiring harness that is not for the 11th gen civic, and an active sub. If your goal is to DSP the factory speakers that will be a waste of time as the factory speakers are pretty terrible when comparing them to aftermarket speakers.

Now if we assume that the DSPs built in amp is going to power your speaker and some how the harnessing works fine you will still need real power for this unit and the sub/amp unit in the trunk/hatch of your civic. I would recommend you run a direct power wire from the battery, with these small units a quality OFC 8 gauge wire should be sufficient. Also include a fuse before the wire connects at the positive terminal of the battery and preferably another one before the sub/amp.

As for the remote turn on lead, I would find an unused open fuse slot that is 12 volts switched and use a fuse tap in that slot to provide the 12v turn on signal.

I have not heard of the code issue you speak of for the radio but it is possible, I would look in your manual see if there is a default code.
Click to expand...

thanks for the reply mate:

1) I do have already installed Alpine SPG 17CS Component speakers both front and rear and my idea is to run the rears actively time aligned to driver position and rears as true rearfill meaning differential rearfill (please note I'am already heavily into car audio but this is my first attempt on this specific car and I always had installs done but this time will take a try to do it myself)

2) I want to see if it is possible to avoid passing a wire through into the engine bay and see if it possible to simpy connect to the fuse no:55 as it is rated 30 amps already which is more than sufficient for me.

3) I would be grateful if someone can let me know which of these fuses would be best to run remote wire?

4) For those who dont know these match amps are very compact,efficient and a product of Audiofischer who is known for Helix,Brax so not a bad item tbh and the software ,dsp flexibility is top notch,I highly recommend them if your not after big DB numbers

5) the plug n play harness is the same for gen 10 as is for gen 11 so indeed this should work,perhaps I will revert back on that and confirm once done.

for years I ran Sinfoni,Xetec,Audison VRX amps,Micro precision tweeters,Focal Utopia's so very very high end stuff but honestly regret it know (maybe I'am just getting older) and wanted to do something cheaper that did just satisfactory.
 
#4 ·
Understood, I've been in the car audio scene in the US for a long time myself. I personally would not trust using a fuse panel slot for an amp, to many times I have seen that go bad so my advice is to run a dedicated power wire. With your small foot print for power it should be easily done.

Here's a picture of my world champion IASCA SPL truck from 2016, my civic wont be this extreme but it will be decently loud.
Image
 
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#6 ·
thanks mate,


I'am happy to have meet someone with the same hobby though I use to compete specifically on SQ,
the mentioned active subwoofer though rated 100rms is actually 2 x 28rms on a dual voice coil sub with extreme efficiency at 89db 1w/1mt.

the front mids will actually take the whole 35rms the amp has to offer,
the tweeters probably will take about 10rms as will the rearfills as they will be very attenuated and bandpassed 300hz-4000hz for true rearfill.

all in all I will be 110rms on the stereo front and 56rms on the sub so grant total 166rms ,my guestimation is that I wouldnt even exceed 10-12amp draw listening to music on the average volume I do which is why I assume that fuse no:55 rated at 30 amps should do.

main reason I want to pull the power lead from the fuse box is that I had a Renault clio 4 where my car introduced engine and especially turbo noise into the cabin after I passed a 2awg to the battery , it wasnt the amp,parasitic noise but literally mechanical noise passing through the punctured insulation on the firewall.


would be grateful if someone can let me know about:

1) how to avoid the radio code issue as mentioned I have read 4-5 members face this
2) which fuse to use for remote wire?
 
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